out of the mist and drizzle, over the hills

as the morning mist lifts over vilamartin pequeño and there is still a bit of drizzle in the air, we bid farewell to the lovely embrace of the donativo refuge, granja de calor. lovely hosts who sent us on our way after we had slept in and after a delicious breakfast.

our footsteps carry us onward through the quiet tranquility of vilamartin grande before we reach the hamlet of gondán. the local albergue closed for good some time ago. from here, the trail unfolds into a short, forgiving passage, gently guiding us over just a couple of mild slopes. we wander through san xusto de cabarcos, where another albergue closed for good. however, there still is a bar where we mix with the locals, fellow pilgrims from madrid and a lone guy from germany.

after a few hills first up, then down we arrive in vilanova de lourenzá, where the striking church of its ancient monastery stands as a silent, majestic witness to centuries of passing pilgrims. we sit a few minutes in front of the town hall and the main church, before the cool breeze gets us going again.

the path finally delivers us to the historic and beautiful city of mondoñedo, the cultural heart of the a mariña central region and a proud episcopal see since the middle ages (that’s what the guidebooks say, anyway). crowned by its magnificent cathedral and enchanting historic quarter, the city welcomes us to rest.

tonight, we find our sanctuary at the municipal albergue de peregrinos, perfectly nestled just a stone's throw from the cathedral doors, offering a peaceful haven beneath the galician sky. freshly showered we will venture into town for some food soon.

until tomorrow.